Winemaker Hardy Wallace has developed something of a cult following as a charismatic leader of the California natural wine movement. A relative newcomer to the domestic winemaking scene, Wallace made his living in tech and wine blogging until 2010, when he ditched his laptop and decided to devote his life to the cellar. Since that time, Wallace has become well-known for his outspoken support of natural wines in California, as well as for his mastery of the Mourvèdre grape, a tricky red variety native to Spain (where it’s called Monastrell) that’s also widely planted throughout Southern France. Though it’s usually robust and medium-full-bodied (making a great Cab Sauv alternative), this bottle is a little different—it’s a one-off version of one of Wallace’s flagship wines, called “Familiar.” The 2017 vintage was a difficult one for Dirty & Rowdy—this wine went through a few more steps of production to keep things on track, and it resulted in a lighter expression than previous vintages. Rather than ditch it altogether, Wallace decided to bottle and name it “Unfamiliar.” He calls this an “emotional” wine, and it’s one that represents the struggles winemakers encounter every year when faced with Mother Nature’s mercurial tendencies.